That is the power of the countryside guide. And that is the life worth living. If you ever find yourself in the Longji Rice Terraces, look for the man with the red headlamp and the roosters. Tell him the city baby who spilled the water says hello. He will make you tea. He will walk you into the mist. And for a few days, you will stop being a tourist. You will just be a neighbor.
We return to his farmhouse. His wife, Auntie Wei, has laid out a lunch of bitter melon, river snails, and a whole chicken that was running around five hours ago. After lunch, Mr. Chen does something shocking: he sleeps. For exactly 40 minutes. No alarm. He just wakes up. daily lives of my countryside guide
We stop at a village where women with long, black hair (wrapped in indigo cloth) are spinning thread. Mr. Chen doesn't just introduce me to them; he sits down and threads a needle himself. He explains that his grandmother was a Yao healer. He translates their gossip (who is getting married, who sold a pig for too little) not as trivia, but as living history. That is the power of the countryside guide
At 8:00 PM, most guides are done. Not Mr. Chen. He puts on a red headlamp. We walk to the rice paddies. “The frogs are singing their love songs,” he whispers. We stand in the dark for twenty minutes. He points out a bamboo pit viper coiled on a branch. He points out a constellation ("That is not the Big Dipper. That is our plow."). Tell him the city baby who spilled the water says hello
We climb to an abandoned village. Half the roofs have caved in. Mr. Chen points to a specific stone doorframe. “That was the school. My great-uncle taught there. He was a poet. One day in 1943, the Japanese soldiers came. He hid the children in the pig sty. The soldiers burned the books. My great-uncle cried for three days. Then he became a farmer.”
At 4:30 AM, the black timber beams of his kitchen glow with the flame of a butane stove. Mr. Chen does not drink coffee. He drinks thick, bitter tea left over from the night before. “To wake the blood,” he says. While the kettle sings, he checks his "war room"—a corkboard map stained with tea rings and marked with colored pins. Red pins are for the rice terraces that are flooding with water. Blue pins denote a landslide from last week’s rain. Yellow pins are for the wild osmanthus bloom.
Most tourists demand a rigid schedule. The best travelers surrender. At 10:00 AM, we were supposed to be at a waterfall. Instead, we sit on a broken millstone while Mr. Chen helps a neighbor dig a drainage ditch. I hand him rocks. He hands me a steamed bun stuffed with pickled radish.